Kurjey Lhakhang

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Kurjey Lhakhang (also spelled Kurje Lhakhang) is one of Bhutan’s most sacred temples, located in the Bumthang Valley (near Jakar/Chamkhar) in central Bhutan. It is renowned for the body imprint of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) left in a rock cave.

Overview and Significance

The name “Kurjey” comes from kur (body) and jey (imprint or print). According to legend, in the 8th century the local king Sindhu Raja (or Sintu Raja) of Bumthang fell gravely ill after his life force (sog) was stolen by the powerful local deity Shelging Karpo. His ministers invited Guru Rinpoche, who meditated in a cave at the site (known as Drakmar Dorje Tsekpa, the “Diamond-Piled Red Rock”) for three months. Through ritual power he subdued Shelging Karpo, forced the return of the king’s life force, and converted the deity into a Dharma protector. During this meditation Guru Rinpoche left a natural imprint of his body in the rock. He is also said to have established the first teachings of Vajrayana Buddhism in the region here.

A sacred spring known as Kurjey Drupchhu is associated with the site and is believed to have healing properties. A large cypress tree behind one of the temples is said to have grown from Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick. The complex is also the final resting place of the remains of Bhutan’s first three kings.

The Temple Complex

The site consists of three main temples built at different times around the sacred cave, enclosed by a wall of 108 chortens:

  • Guru Lhakhang (the oldest): Built in 1652 by Minjur Tenpa (Mingyur Tenpa), then Penlop of Trongsa. It encloses the meditation cave and the body imprint. Statues of Guru Rinpoche and his eight manifestations are central; the imprint is accessible behind the main image. A snow lion and garuda (jachung) figure represents the struggle between Guru Rinpoche and Shelging Karpo.
  • Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang: Constructed in 1900 by Ugyen Wangchuck (later the First King of Bhutan) while he was still Penlop of Trongsa. It houses a large statue of Guru Rinpoche.
  • Third temple (Ka Goen Phur Sum Lhakhang or similar naming): Built in 1984 by Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Wangchuck under the guidance of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.

Pilgrims often crawl through a narrow rock passage near the temples, believed to cleanse sins. The courtyard and surrounding area are used for festivals, including the Kurjey Tshechu.

Visiting Information

  • Location: About 5–7 km north of Chamkhar/Jakar town in Bumthang Valley (roughly 15–30 minutes by car). It is often visited together with nearby sites such as Jambay Lhakhang and Chakhar Lhakhang.
  • Typical visit duration: 45–90 minutes.
  • Opening hours: Generally daytime (commonly around 8/9 AM–5 PM). Confirm locally as schedules can vary with monastic activities.
  • Entrance fee: Usually free or covered under Bhutan’s daily tourism tariff/Sustainable Development Fee; donations are appreciated. Check current details with your operator.
  • Etiquette: Modest dress (shoulders and legs covered). Remove shoes before entering the temples. Photography is typically restricted inside the sanctums. Maintain quiet respect; the site is an active place of worship and pilgrimage.
  • Best time: Spring and autumn for pleasant weather. The Kurjey Tshechu (usually in June, according to the lunar calendar) and other ritual events draw larger crowds of devotees.

Kurjey Lhakhang is a highlight of any Bumthang itinerary, combining profound spiritual history, architectural beauty, and a powerful sense of place. It is typically experienced as part of a licensed guided tour of central Bhutan.